In the desert of tharparkr , a small desert city with a rich heritage, handicrafts, stitches, and culture. This is the story of neck yokes, embroidered and give identity to old pieces worn by tribal women, and the man who preserved them is Mr. Khetaram Maheshwari, a visionary who made the foundation of Umerkot’s vintage handicraft trade over 30 years ago.
From Lagari to Balochi, Afgani yoke to Kalli zari , sindhi kanchera to dhotal kanchera each neck yoke tells a story of tradition, belonging, and heriloom identity. This blog explores the types of neck yokes, their regional significance, and how Umerkot became a key center for vintage textile preservation and recycling to make new textile from old neck yoke.
What is a Neck Yoke?
A neck yoke, dress front panel is a heavily embroidered fabric piece stitched onto the upper chest part of a traditional tribal dress. These yokes vary by community and region, cultural and are often decorated with
mirror work,beads ,kodi, lalan , jhallar , pom pom ,latkin.
and the thread used to make is zari tilla mukka thread in kalli zari,Cotton and polyster cloth in balochi dress, silk is used in odhani and finest kanchera ,wool is used shawl khess, katha, based on floral, geometric, or symbolic embroidery
They are not just decorative, they are used instead of jeweler ornaments becuase poor people not afford gold jewellery so these neck yoke represent the tribal identity, marital status, and craftsmanship of the women who wore them and each pcs is separate for age group.
Types of pakistani Neck Yokes
(1) Lagari Neck Yoke are from lagari community in Sindh, these yoke are fine embrodery with mirror work and bright yellow base, and an other one is zig zag pattern (antiki sew gala) are blackish and yellowish color without mirror , and last one is red color and mainly simple embroidery work mirror with circular thick black pattern theses red neck yoke are worn every day in daily life and yellow colr are worn during community functions and rural gatherings in region of sindh Hyderabad, Badin, Larkana, Ghotki, Sukkur, Sanghar, Dadu, and Thatta.
(2) Jati Neck Yoke are Heavy and thick embroidery with finest thick embroidery with beautiful color make them embolising ,often in red, black, and blue combinations with mirror work and 2,3 cotton base folded neck yoke are belong Jat Community located in Sujawal District, Sindh and few area of kutuch bhuj but the neck yoke from these area faded their color on washing and slightly redish tone.
(3) Balochi Neck Yoke are from baloch tribe of Balochistan pakistan
simple one color elegant chain stitch and satin polyster full dress are made by these tribe and used to wear in daily life full of mirror and big centeral pocket in all colors.
(4) Afgani Neck Yoke are thread and zari work with full of decoration from beads, moti, and lessees use and very thick and heavy in weight with multiple color small to full size dress with bid sleeves originally from Afghanistan, peshawar ,quetta region of pakistan and pathan community.
(5)Kalli Zari Neck Yoke or kanncheri , muka pati, are from Tharparkar, Umerkot
Rich yellow color zari thread embroidery and for older ladies silver zari used, these neck yoke are small and only at chest pcs below is velvet or cotton attch and also from this embroidery lot of other items are made like dowry bags , bujki, gothlia, pillow, cushion, gala, belt.
The Beginning of recycling of neck yoke from Mr, Khetaram Maheshwari’s
In the early 1990s, Mr,Khetaram Maheshwari, a respected and famous figure in Umerkot’s handicraft world, took a visionary and recycling of these old used vintage neck yoke to give new look , he take few steps, He sent members of the Kunbhar community, known for their deep desert knowledge and barter expertise, to tribal villages across Sindh, Baluchistan, badin,Hyderabad, Badin, Larkana, Ghotki, Sukkur, Sanghar, Dadu, and Thatta and Afghanistan. These kunbhar local boy know differnt languge and make exchange offer to villagers women to exchanged utensils for used neck yokes, garments, and patchwork embroidery.
This began a waste and old neck yoke into new decorative life and he make collection of vintage embroidery many over 50,70 years old.
The Process of Revival & Recycling neck yoke into new textile
Once neck yoke collected, Mr, Maheshwari introduced a detailed sorting, washing, and redesigning process frist
he is sorting by Region & Style Pieces categorized based on embroidery, thread type, region, mirror style, and base cloth, than he is sending them washing & repairing, each yoke washed gently to remove decades old dust
fabric softened without damaging the original threads and make repair and send to cutting deparatment where these neck yoke are cutt in small peices after that the making of glue for pasting these neck yoke on cotton base Yokes pasted carefully on new cotton fabric using organic glue for creating products like,wall hangings, Cushion covers, Mats, Runners, Bags, Jackets after that putt them in open air under sunlight for dry than collect them and send to loacl remote villages for Joining the gaps between pieces with Thick Dori (Reso)
Each patch was joined by thick hand-twisted thread called “Reso”
This added structure, design, and a traditional patchwork aesthetic, unified look made them more appealing for modern use while making them vintage and antique charm
apply dye from sparay over them all yokes were dyed using a light pink vintage wash and finally send them to tailor for stitching with Otey (Outline)for durability and neat finish look, and products combined look of tribal history with contemporary utility textile.
Legacy & Umerkot’s Handicraft Identity
Thanks to the foundation built by Mr,Khetaram Maheshwari, Umerkot is now a major handicrafts hub for vintage textile crafts,known for authentic tribal collections and museum type embroidery ,a supplier to global textile museums, collectors, and ethnic fashion brands.